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Rocca Carpanea - Pilastrino Mirovino

Status Open
NR 55
Area Finalese
Tipologia Grade 5, Grade 6

Pilastrino Mirovino offers 13 routes, on average 20 meters long but it also has many that can reach 30 meters. The main climbing style is vertical and technical walls with the occasional overhang. The bolting is well done with stainless steel glued bolts.

Being west facing, it is a great crag for winter or mid-season.

 

Grades: from 5b to 6b+

Rock type: limestone

Orientation: west

Possible when raining: no

Mobile signal: yes

 

EFFETTO SASSOFRASSO: 6b, 25m. Vertical wall

RINGO BOYS: 6c, 25m. Overhang and vertical wall

3 INCIDENTE PROBATORIO: 6c, 25m. Overhang

AVVISO DI GARANZIA: 6a+, 30m. Overhang

VIA SENZA NOME DI SINISTRA: 5b, 30m. Slab and vertical wall

VIA DEL DIEDRO: 5b, 25m. Slab and corner

PILASTRINO MIROVINO: 6b, 30m. Slab

MARACANA’: 6b, 30m. Slab and vertical wall 

VIA SENZA NOME DI DESTRA: 5a, 30m. Overhang and corner

10 THOMMY: 6a, 25m. Vertical wall and overhang

11 ELISA: 6b+, 20m. Slab and overhang

12 BEA: 6a, 20m. Overhang

13 ELENA: 5b, 20m. Overhang

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How to & Rules

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Check the weather forecast

Pay special attention to AllertaLiguria website and do not set off on your adventure if there should be any weather alerts.

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Respect nature and the territory

Respect nature and the territory

Connect with nature, don’t litter nor be too loud and, as a general rule, respect the territory around you. Nature will thank you and so will we.

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Fire risk

Fire risk

During times of drought avoid lighting fires, choose suitable trails avoiding those in the pine forest and favouring those with alternative routes for going back.

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Emergency numbers

Emergency numbers

Remember: 1515 for forest fires, 112 for medical emergencies. No matter what, always make sure someone knows where you are headed.

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Be careful

Be careful

If it should be a more demanding experience than expected, don't hesitate to retrace your steps.

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Respect other climbers

Respect other climbers

Bear in mind, don’t hog climbing routes, clean up chalk off holds after using them and don’t scatter your things around. It’s always a good idea to gather your belongings in one place.

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If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch and repeating it several times, it is best to use an HMS-type carabiner instead of threading it directly into the maillon to avoid its wear and tear.

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Rappeling

Rappeling

In the “finalese” crags you rarely find fixed carabiners, therefore you’ll have to be able to do a particular type of rappel to lower off.

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Plan your day

Plan your day

Make sure you are well informed on characteristics of the crag you are about to climb (route’s length, grade, exposure, walk-in time).

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