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Valle Aquila - Placca dei Maleducati

Status Open
NR 85
Area Finalese
Tipologia Grade 5, Grade 6, Grade 7

Perhaps one of the most beautiful crags in the Finale area. It has about 50 stunning routes on vertical wall with some great overhanging sections. Being west facing, it is suitable for winter and mid-season. The base is overall comfortable, except for the very steep "Pilastro" sector that is still very much worth a climb.

 

Grades: from 5b to 7c

Rock type: limestone

Orientation: west

Possible when raining: no

Mobile signal: yes

 

VIA SINISTRA: 6a+, 20m. Vertical wall

VIA CENTRALE: 6b+, 20m. Vertical wall

SPIGOLO: 6a+, 20m. Vertical wall

DEGNA DI TUA SORELLA P1: 6a, 20m. Vertical wall

                                              P2: 6a+, 15m. Slab

                                              P3: 6b, 20m. Slab

DEGNA DI NOI P1: 5b, 15m. Slab

                             P2: 6c+, 30m. Overhang

                             P3: 6b+, 30m. Corner/crack

                              P4: 7a, 25m. Slab and overhang

ANTI COI GUANTI: 7a+, 15m. Vertical wall

CULAZZO: 6c+, 15m. Overhang

IL MACACO: 6b+, 15m. Vertical wall

PRANDOLIX: 7a, 20m. Vertical wall

10 EDITH: 6b, 20m. Vertical wall

11 PIPPI: 6a+, 15m. Vertical wall

12 PIPISTRELLI E SALVARAGNI: 6b, 25m. Vertical wall

13 DECISO E PRECISO: 6b+, 20m. Vertical wall

14 COCOON: 6c, 20m. Vertical wall

15 K-PAX: 6b+, 25m. Vertical wall and overhang

16 IL FALCHETTO PICCHIETTO E IL MANGIATORE DI MOSCHE: 6a, 20m. Vertical wall

17 MAGA MAGU’: 6b, 20m. Vertical wall

18 APRILE DOLCE DORMIRE: 6a+, 20m. Vertical wall

19 MATERIA GRIGIA: 6a+, 20m. Vertical wall

20 FUGA DI ½ GIORNO: 6a, 20m. Vertical wall

21 IL GATTO E LA VOLPE: 6a+, 20m. Placca

22 PORTACI A BERNA: 6c, 20m. Vertical wall

23 INCUBI E DELIRI P1: 6b, 15m. Vertical wall

                                   P2: 6b+, 10m. Vertical wall

24 IL VAGABONDO DELLE STELLE: 6a+, 25m. Slab

25 GRAZIE LO STESSO: 6a, 20m. Corner, overhang and slab

26 MYLU’: 7a, 20m. Overhang

27 IL MURO DI CRISTALLO: 7a+, 25m. Vertical wall

28 JAZZ BLUES FUSION: 6b+, 20m. Overhang

29 RA PERBUREIRA: 6c, 20m. Short roof

30 LUNA: 6c+, 20m. Vertical wall

31 SFINGE: 6b+, 20m. Vertical wall

32 MILLY: 7c, 20m. Vertical wall and roof

33 SHILA P1: 7b+, 20m. Overhang

                  P2: 4c, 15m. Slab

34 BRICIOLA P1: 7a+, 20m. Vertical wall

                       P2: 5c, 20m. Corner

35 MAX: 6c+, 35m. Vertical wall

36 A CA’ DE ALICE: 6b+, 35m. Vertical wall

37 IL GECO: 7a, 30m. Vertical wall

38 IL CREATORE DELLE OMBRE: 6c, 35m. Vertical wall

39 EFFETTO NEVA: 7a, 25m. Vertical wall

40 ICE LIMIT: 7c, 25m. Vertical wall and overhang

41 LES COULEURS D’UN AUTRE MONDE: 6b, 30m. Overhang

42 IL TABACCAIO MAGICO: 6c, 30m. Overhang

43 L’ULTIMA MISSIONE: 6c, 30m. Vertical wall

44 ENIGMA: 7a, 15m. Vertical wall

45 DEMOLITION MAN: 6b, 15m. Vertical wall

46 DIMENSIONE PANZA: 6a+, 20m. Slab and overhang

47 GIORNI DI MAGIA: 6a, 15m. Slab and overhang

48 INSOMNIA: 6b+, 15m. Slab and overhang

49 UNO DIEDRO L’ALDRO: 5c, 15m. Corner/crack

50 AROUND THE WORLD: 6b+, 15m. Short vertical wall and roof

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How to & Rules

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Check the weather forecast

Pay special attention to AllertaLiguria website and do not set off on your adventure if there should be any weather alerts.

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Respect nature and the territory

Respect nature and the territory

Connect with nature, don’t litter nor be too loud and, as a general rule, respect the territory around you. Nature will thank you and so will we.

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Fire risk

Fire risk

During times of drought avoid lighting fires, choose suitable trails avoiding those in the pine forest and favouring those with alternative routes for going back.

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Emergency numbers

Emergency numbers

Remember: 1515 for forest fires, 112 for medical emergencies. No matter what, always make sure someone knows where you are headed.

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Be careful

Be careful

If it should be a more demanding experience than expected, don't hesitate to retrace your steps.

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Respect other climbers

Respect other climbers

Bear in mind, don’t hog climbing routes, clean up chalk off holds after using them and don’t scatter your things around. It’s always a good idea to gather your belongings in one place.

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If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch and repeating it several times, it is best to use an HMS-type carabiner instead of threading it directly into the maillon to avoid its wear and tear.

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Rappeling

Rappeling

In the “finalese” crags you rarely find fixed carabiners, therefore you’ll have to be able to do a particular type of rappel to lower off.

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Plan your day

Plan your day

Make sure you are well informed on characteristics of the crag you are about to climb (route’s length, grade, exposure, walk-in time).

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