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Valle Sciusa e Ponci - Casa del Vacchè

Status Open
NR 175
Area Finalese
Tipologia Grade 5, Grade 6, Grade 7

Forgotten for years and currently being re-bolted, Casa del Vacchè is one of the largest sectors in the whole Finale area. It offers different kinds of routes, ranging from slab to roof, that can be as high as 30 meters with beautiful lines. The perfectly flat base is perfect for families with children or animals.

 

Grades: from 5a to 7b+

Rock type: limestone

Orientation: south

Possible when raining: no

Mobile signal: no

 

VACCHE MAGRE: 6a, 10m. Slab

VACCHE GRASSE: 6a+, 10m. Slab

EL STINKADERO: 6b+, 15m. Overhang

D’ERSCHTE: 6a, 15m. Vertical wall

ODONGAY: 6b+, 10m. Vertical wall

ROSSESE PER SUPERCIUK: 5c, 10m. Vertical wall

COLPO GROSSO: 6c, 10m. Overhang

LOVE STORY D’AUTUNNO: 7a, 10m. Vertical wall

KAMBOTSCHA: 7a, 10m. Overhang

10 SQUONK: 6a+, 10m. Overhang

11 CENTRAL BAR: 6a+, 10m. Overhang

12 BIBERON: 7a+, 10m. Roof

13 MAGO MERLINO: 7a, 15m. Roof

14 GSIBERG: 7a, 15m. Roof

15 AB OVO: 6a+, 15m. Vertical wall

16 DER TRICHTER: 6a+, 15m. Vertical wall

17 BON TON: 6b, 20m. Vertical wall

18 MANILA P1: 6b, 10m. Vertical wall

                    P2: ?, 15m. Overhang

19 FIORE SELVAGGIO P1: 6c, 10m. Vertical wall

                                      P2: 7b+, 15m. Overhang

20 COSMIC BOYS: 6c+, 25m. Vertical wall

21 GALACTIC HIGHWAYS: 7b, 20m. Vertical wall

22 INTERFERENCE: ?, 20m. Vertical wall

23 MILCHSTRAßE: 7a, 20m. Overhang

24 TRASGRESSIONE: 6c+, 20m. Overhang

25 FETTABSAUGUNG P1: 6b, 15m. Overhang

                                     P2: 7b, 5m. Overhang

26 UTOPIA AL TRAMONTO: 6c+, 10m. Overhang

27 CITOFONARE A LILLY: 6a+, 10m. Overhang

28 PIERINO LA PESTE: 5c, 10m. Slab

29 IL TEMPIO DELLE CLESSIDRE: 6a+, 20m. Slab

30 KLAMMERAFFE: 6a, 15m. Slab

31 PLATZREGEN: 5a, 15m. Slab

32 STURM IM WASSERGLAS: 5b, 15m. Slab

33 CE L'HAI UN CANE?: 6b, 35m. Slab

34 INCUBI NOTTURNI: 5c, 20m. Vertical wall

35 IL CORAGGIO DI PARLARE: 6a, 30m. Vertical wall

36 IL PARASSITA DI CORONATA: 6a+, 20m. Vertical wall

37 FAI FINTA ALMENO DI CAPIRE: 6a, 20m. Vertical wall

38 SORCI VERDI: 6b, 20m. Vertical wall

39 NONNO GRADO: 6c, 10m. Overhang

40 BRAVO BUNNY P1: 6a+, 10m. Overhang

                                 P2: 6b, 10m. Vertical wall

41 FUTURA: 7a, 15m. Vertical wall

42 STRIP TEASE: 6b, 10m. Overhang

43 LA COSA PESANTE CHE STA NELLE MUTANDE: 6c, 15m. Vertical wall

44 ANDAMENTO LENTO: 7a, 15m. Roof

45 PETER PAN: 6b+, 15m. Vertical wall

 

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How to & Rules

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Check the weather forecast

Pay special attention to AllertaLiguria website and do not set off on your adventure if there should be any weather alerts.

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Respect nature and the territory

Respect nature and the territory

Connect with nature, don’t litter nor be too loud and, as a general rule, respect the territory around you. Nature will thank you and so will we.

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Fire risk

Fire risk

During times of drought avoid lighting fires, choose suitable trails avoiding those in the pine forest and favouring those with alternative routes for going back.

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Emergency numbers

Emergency numbers

Remember: 1515 for forest fires, 112 for medical emergencies. No matter what, always make sure someone knows where you are headed.

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Be careful

Be careful

If it should be a more demanding experience than expected, don't hesitate to retrace your steps.

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Respect other climbers

Respect other climbers

Bear in mind, don’t hog climbing routes, clean up chalk off holds after using them and don’t scatter your things around. It’s always a good idea to gather your belongings in one place.

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If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch and repeating it several times, it is best to use an HMS-type carabiner instead of threading it directly into the maillon to avoid its wear and tear.

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Rappeling

Rappeling

In the “finalese” crags you rarely find fixed carabiners, therefore you’ll have to be able to do a particular type of rappel to lower off.

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Plan your day

Plan your day

Make sure you are well informed on characteristics of the crag you are about to climb (route’s length, grade, exposure, walk-in time).

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