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Monte Cucco – Grottone

Status Open
NR 92
Area Finalese
Tipologia Grade 6, Grade 7, Grade 8

Grottone di Monte Cucco is one of the most recent sectors in this area. Its extremely overhanging routes start from an obvious cave and come out onto compact vertical walls. Strength and endurance as well as precision and technique are crucial.

 

Grades: from 6c to 8c

Rock type: limestone

Orientation: west

Possible when raining: yes

Mobile signal: yes

 

FESSURA: 6c, 30m. Crack

2 L’ARCA DI NOÈ: ?, 30m. Slab

L'ARCA DI NOÈ: 8b, 30m. Vertical wall

SENZA NOME: ?, 30m. Unfinished bolting

LA PIÙ BELLA DEL REAME: 8a+, 30m. Overhang and vertical wall

THE WALL: 8b, 30m.  Overhang and vertical wall

TOCCAFERRO: 8a, 30m. Corner and overhang

BLOC TROTTER: 8b, 30m. Overhang

VIA DELLA CAVERNA P1: 6c+, 20m. Overhang (old bolts)

                                          P2: ?, 15m. Vertical wall (old bolts)

                                          P3: ?, 15m. Vertical wall (old bolts)

10 THE WINNER TAKES IT ALL P1: 8a, 20m. Roof

                                                        P2: 7b+, 25m. Overhang

                                                        P3: 6c, 25m. Vertical wall

                                                        P4: 7a+, 15m. Overhang

11 SENZA NOME: ?, 10m. (old bolts)

12 SENZA NOME: ?, 10m. (old bolts)

13 GROTTENDACH: 6c+, 15m. (old bolts)

14 ROBIN HOOD: 8b+, 35m. Overhang

15 CUCCO COME UNA BESTIA: 8c, 35m. Overhang

16 RE DI CHIA: 8b, 35m. Overhang

17 CUCCO AL MASSIMO: 8b+, 35m. Overhang

18 CUCCO IN ALTO P1: 8b, 35m. Vertical wall

                                   P2: ?, 25m. Vertical wall

19 SAUTA: 7b, 30m. Vertical wall

20 LA MODIFICA: 7b+, 30m. Vertical wall

21 VIA G. FLAMINIO: ?, 80m. Vertical wall (old bolts)

22 CLIMBING QUEEN: 7b+, 20m. Overhang

23 LECCA LECCA: 8b, 25m. Overhang

24 IO SONO PRONTO P1: 5c, 15m. Crack

                                       P2: 8a+, 15m. Vertical wall

25 L'ETÀ DELLA RAGIONE: 8a, 35m. Slab

26 TIRO A CANESTRO: ?, 30m. Vertical wall

27 IL VERDON PUÒ ATTENDERE: 8a+, 30m. Slab

28 FUORI E' BUIO P1: 5c, 15m. Slab

                                 P2: ?, 30m. Slab

29 BONBON RAPIDE: 8a, 20m. Vertical wall

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How to & Rules

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Check the weather forecast

Pay special attention to AllertaLiguria website and do not set off on your adventure if there should be any weather alerts.

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Respect nature and the territory

Respect nature and the territory

Connect with nature, don’t litter nor be too loud and, as a general rule, respect the territory around you. Nature will thank you and so will we.

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Fire risk

Fire risk

During times of drought avoid lighting fires, choose suitable trails avoiding those in the pine forest and favouring those with alternative routes for going back.

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Emergency numbers

Emergency numbers

Remember: 1515 for forest fires, 112 for medical emergencies. No matter what, always make sure someone knows where you are headed.

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Be careful

Be careful

If it should be a more demanding experience than expected, don't hesitate to retrace your steps.

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Respect other climbers

Respect other climbers

Bear in mind, don’t hog climbing routes, clean up chalk off holds after using them and don’t scatter your things around. It’s always a good idea to gather your belongings in one place.

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If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch and repeating it several times, it is best to use an HMS-type carabiner instead of threading it directly into the maillon to avoid its wear and tear.

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Rappeling

Rappeling

In the “finalese” crags you rarely find fixed carabiners, therefore you’ll have to be able to do a particular type of rappel to lower off.

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Plan your day

Plan your day

Make sure you are well informed on characteristics of the crag you are about to climb (route’s length, grade, exposure, walk-in time).

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