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Monte Cucco - Settore Centrale

Status Open
NR 96
Area Finalese
Tipologia Grade 5, Grade 6, Grade 7, Grade 8

Very technical slabs and vertical walls with some classic multi-pitch routes such as the historic Via del Tetto or Il Muro di Berlino. Here we find precision climbing where even the humidity content in the air can really make a difference. With more than 40 routes, the central sector of Monte Cucco is one of the widest and most iconic in this area.

 

Grades: from 5c to 8a

Rock type: limestone

Orientation: west

Possible when raining: no

Mobile signal: yes

 

BANANNA STRANNA: 7c+, 30m. Vertical wall

ADELE P1: 7a, 25m. Crack

                P2: 5c, 10m. Crack

                P3: 6b, 40m. Vertical wall

SPECCHIO PER LE ALLODOLE: 7b+, 25m. Vertical wall

RADICAL CHIC: 8a, 25m. Vertical wall

MOON RUNNER: 7c, 25m. Vertical wall

OCCHI DOLCI PER FRANK ZAPPA: 7b, 25m. Vertical wall

DIRETTA A FRANK ZAPPA: 7b+, 30m. Vertical wall

VARIANTE ALLA VIA DEL TETTO P1: 6a, 15m. Vertical wall

                                                          P2: 6a, 25m. Vertical wall

FLASH KATMANDU: 6c, 15m. Vertical wall

10 VIA DEL TETTO P1: 5c, 30m. Crack

                                 P2: 6b, 30m. Crack

                                 P3: 4c, 15m. Crack

                                 P4: 6a, 20m. Vertical wall

11 ZANDONINIK P1: 6a, 25m. Slab

                               P2: 6b, 35m. Slab

                               P3: 6a+, 30m. Slab

12 60 VECCHI GRILLI: 6a, 30m. Vertical wall

13 HAIRCELL: 6c, 35m. Slab

14 DOVE VA ZIZÌ P1: 6a+, 20m. Slab

                              P2: 6b, 25m. Slab

                              P3: 6a+, 30m. Vertical wall

                              P4: 5c, 20m. Slab

15 IL MURO DI BERLINO P1: 6b, 20m. Slab

                                              P2: 6b+, 25m. Slab

16 VIA DI LÌ P1: 6a+, 35m. Slab

                      P2: 5c, 30m. Slab

 17 LA PULCE P1: 5c, 35m. Crack

                         P2: 4c, 25m. Slab

                         P3: 5b, 25m. Roof

18 VIA DI LÀ: 6b, 30m. Slab

19 BIANCO E NERO: 6b+, 30m. Vertical wall

20 VIA DEI SASSISTI: 6a, 30m. Slab

21 MI DICA BRAVUCCI: 6a, 30m. Slab

22 TRAINING SISTERS: 6a+, 30m. Vertical wall

23 KAMASUTRA: 7c, 35m. Vertical wall

24 CORPUS DOMINI P1: 6b, 35m. Corner

                                   P2: 5c, 25m. Crack

                                   P3: 5c, 15m. Crack

                                   P4: 5a, 10m. Slab

25 TOCCATA E FUGA: 6a, 30m. Slab

26 BUCCE D’ARANCIA: 6b, 15m. Overhang and slab

27 OPTI-MATTI: 6a, 20m. Slab

28 IL GUFO: 5c, 30m. Corner

29 COLLEGAMENTO: 5c, 15m. Slab

30 GRILLOMANIA: 6a, 35m. Traverse

31 BULLDOG: 6a+, 25m. Slab

32 È TEMPO DI SOGNARE: 7a, 25m. Vertical wall

33 PER COLPA DI CHI P1: 6b, 20m. Vertical wall

                                      P2: 6c, 20m. Slab

34 ASPETTANDO IL SOLE P1: 6b+, 25m. Vertical wall

                                             P2: 6b, 20m. Vertical wall

                                             P3: 6c, 20m. Vertical wall

35 MIMÌ E CLOWN P1: 6b+, 25m. Vertical wall

                                 P2: 6c+, 20m. Vertical wall

                                 P3: 6c+, 20m. Vertical wall

36 UN ATTIMO DI ETERNO: 6c, 25m. Slab

37 COLLEGAMENTO: 4a, 10m. Traverse

38 L’ULTIMA AVVENTURA: 6c, 30m. Slab

39 TETTO BERHAULT: 7a, 15m. Roof

40 DIRETTA DEL TETTO P1: 6b+, 30m. Corner

                                          P2: 5a, 15m. Slab

                                          P3: 6a, 15m. Vertical wall

41 BRANCALEONE P1: 5c, 25m. Corner

                                 P2: 6a, 25m. Crack and roof

42 EFFETTO NOTTE: 6a+, 25m. Vertical wall

43 L’ALPINO P1: 6a, 25m. Vertical wall

                      P2: 5c, 25m. Vertical wall

 

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How to & Rules

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Check the weather forecast

Pay special attention to AllertaLiguria website and do not set off on your adventure if there should be any weather alerts.

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Respect nature and the territory

Respect nature and the territory

Connect with nature, don’t litter nor be too loud and, as a general rule, respect the territory around you. Nature will thank you and so will we.

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Fire risk

Fire risk

During times of drought avoid lighting fires, choose suitable trails avoiding those in the pine forest and favouring those with alternative routes for going back.

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Emergency numbers

Emergency numbers

Remember: 1515 for forest fires, 112 for medical emergencies. No matter what, always make sure someone knows where you are headed.

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Be careful

Be careful

If it should be a more demanding experience than expected, don't hesitate to retrace your steps.

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Respect other climbers

Respect other climbers

Bear in mind, don’t hog climbing routes, clean up chalk off holds after using them and don’t scatter your things around. It’s always a good idea to gather your belongings in one place.

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If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch and repeating it several times, it is best to use an HMS-type carabiner instead of threading it directly into the maillon to avoid its wear and tear.

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Rappeling

Rappeling

In the “finalese” crags you rarely find fixed carabiners, therefore you’ll have to be able to do a particular type of rappel to lower off.

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Plan your day

Plan your day

Make sure you are well informed on characteristics of the crag you are about to climb (route’s length, grade, exposure, walk-in time).

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