- AREA_3
- PASSION_CLIMB
- SPORT_TIPO_CLIMBING_6
- SPORT_TIPO_CLIMBING_7
Rian Cornei - Falesia del Castagno
- Status Open
- NR 110
- Area Finalese
- Tipologia Grade 6, Grade 7
Surrounded by greenery, the Falesia del Castagno is a perfect choice on hot days, with the convenient support of the Bar dell’Orco and the nearby campsite, both part of the FOR YOU CARD network.
After a long period of near abandonment, the crag has been expanded and re-equipped by Marco (“Thomas”) Tomassini and is now fully accessible again. In summer, the crag starts to move into the shade from around midday.
Grades: from 5a to 8a+
Rock type: limestone
Orientation: north-east
Possible when raining: no
Mobile signal: no
The crag has 4 sectors:
- GROTTINO SECTOR
1 DAS FAULTIER: 6a+, 8 m. Overhang on good holds – rebolted route – bolts: 4
2 FRAMMENTI DI CIELO: 6a, 10 m. Roof on big holds – rebolted route – bolts: 4
3 KLOBRILLE: 6b, 10 m. Easy slab, then vertical wall – new route – bolts: 4
- LEFT SECTOR
4 AMELIE & SOPHIE: 6a+, 15 m. Crack with a slab finish – new route – bolts: 9
5 STRATAGEMMA: 7c, 14 m. Technical slab, starting diagonally left – new route – bolts: 9
6 SILHOUETTE: 6a+, 16 m. Nice crack line – new route – bolts: 9
7 ZERO GRAVITY: 7a+, 12 m. Slight overhang, technical on small pockets, finishing on slab – new route – bolts: 7
8 THE TIME MACHINE: 6c+, 13 m. Vertical wall with a hard opening move, reaches a big pocket then continues on an easy overhang – new route – bolts: 7
9 GALACTIC MANTRA: 7a+, 24 m. Very nice line! Slab with droplets and pockets, with a hard sequence around three-quarters height, finishing on a slight overhang – new route – bolts: 13
10 IL RICORDO DI FIL: 6a, 20 m. Nice! Corner/crack – new route – bolts: 10
11 STARDUST: 6b, 18 m. Very nice! Slab with droplets and pockets – new route – bolts: 9
12 TOLLPATSCH: 6b+, 9 m. Hard start with tricky clipping, finishing on a short roof – new route – bolts: 5
13 LABELLO: 5c+, 12 m. Sequence of mantles over short roofs – new route – bolts: 6
14 VAN GOGH: 5c, 17 m. Initial move on small pockets, then continues on a pocketed slab – new route – bolts: 9
15 QUATTRO MASCHIACCI D’ANTAN: 5a, 18 m. Slab with pockets and big pockets – new route – bolts: 10
- MAIN SECTOR
16 TAMPAX: 6c+, 10 m. Vertical wall with an easy finish on big holds – new route – bolts: 6
17 MITTLERWEILE: 6c+, 10 m. Vertical wall with a very demanding finish on small holds – new route – bolts: 6
18 LACRIME DI PIETRA: 7a+, 10 m. Vertical wall – rebolted route – bolts: 6
19 JEDI: 6c, 10 m. Overhang, then continues up a vertical wall – rebolted route – bolts: 5
20 CAMBIAMI IL LOOK ARMANI: 6c, 10 m. Overhang, then continues up a vertical wall – rebolted route – bolts: 6
21 CHECKMATE: 8a+, 19 m. Vertical wall – new route – bolts: 10
22 ELECTRIC DAYLIGHT: 7c, 19 m. Starts on a juggy scoop, then continues on a hard vertical wall – new route – bolts: 10
23 HYPNOTIC: 8a, 15 m. Very nice! Boulder-style with a mono sequence – new route – bolts: 8
24 POLE POLE: 7c+, 13 m. Slightly overhanging wall, then onto a slab with small holds – new route – bolts: 8
25 VERTICAL DROP: 7a, 12 m. Very nice! Slightly overhanging wall – new route – bolts: 7
26 DADO: 6b+, 12 m. Slightly overhanging wall – rebolted route – bolts: 6
27 TAVERNA: 6b+, 12 m. Slightly overhanging wall – rebolted route – bolts: 6
28 DONNE: 6c, 13 m. Overhanging corner/crack, don’t underestimate the finish – rebolted route – bolts: 7
29 ANAKIN E PAD: 6b, 11 m. Nice. Overhanging corner on good holds – new route – bolts: 6
30 MOI LOLITA: 6b, 9 m. Overhanging wall on excellent holds, power and endurance – new route – bolts: 5
31 PRIDE: 7a, 10 m. Overhang with a very hard crux move – new route – bolts: 4
32 THE POWER OF LOVE: 6a+, 9 m. Not to be missed! Subtle corner/crack with an unforgettable finish on tufas – new route – bolts: 5
33 STILETTO LOVER: 6b+, 10 m. Delicate and tricky to read, especially the final move – new route – bolts: 4
34 TOKYO: 6a, 12 m. Two bulges on good but hidden holds; in between, plenty of small pockets – new route – bolts: 7
- MANITÙ SECTOR
35 ALLES FEST IM GRIFF: 6c+, 13 m. Starts on a roof, then continues on an overhang – new route – bolts: 7
36 BLUES PER MANITÙ: 6b+, 12 m. Steep, sustained overhang – rebolted route – bolts: 6
37 ZENESTRIN: 6c+, 13 m. Vertical wall with a hard finish – new route – bolts: 6
38 COPPETTA ASSASSINA: 6a+, 11 m. Vertical wall – new route – bolts: 5
