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Rian Cornei - Placconata Centrale di Rian Cornei

Status Open
NR 133
Area Finalese
Tipologia Grade 5, Grade 6, Grade 7

The Placconata Centrale di Rian Cornei is without a doubt one of the most beautiful crags in the Finale area; it offers mainly routes on slabs but there are also some short overhangs. Its western exposure makes it ideal for the winter months. The bolting is good and recent but not too close together. The base is overall flat and wide (except in a few spots).

The routes are always fun but mostly technical and strenuous. Having almost no rest stops, it is quite demanding, and it requires a lot of focus at every single step. Three are great routes but they are not recommended for overhang or power routes lovers, here it is all about balance and technique.

 

Grades: from 5c to 7a+

Rock type: limestone

Orientation: west

Possible when raining: no

Mobile signal: no

 

ME NE BATTU U BELIN: 6a, 15m. Vertical wall

SCHERZI DI ARLECCHINO: 6a, 15m. Vertical wall

T.REX: 6a, 15m. Vertical wall

LA RUOTA DEL TEMPO: 6b+, 15m. Overhang

IL POZZO E IL PENDOLO: 6a+, 15m. Vertical wall

E' LA TUA: 5c, 20m. Slab

DOBRO: 6a, 20m. Slab

GIOCHI PROIBITI: 6a+, 20m. Slab

LINEA LOGICA: 6a+, 20m. Slab

10 LA VENDETTA DI PAPERINIK: 6b+, 20m. Vertical wall

11 SPUTNIK: 6b, 20m. Overhang

12 SOGNO DI UN CLOWN: 6a+, 20m. Overhang

13 FOXTROT: 6a, 20m. Vertical wall

14 GIOCHI D'OMBRE: 6c+, 20m. Vertical wall

15 UN'IDEA UN PROGETTO: 6b, 20m. Vertical wall

16 YAMA: 6a, 35m. Corner

17 PRINCIPESSA: 6c, 35m. Slab

18 … E IL LUPO ALBERTO: 6c+, 35m. Vertical wall

19 SERAFINO GEMELLI: 6b, 35m. Vertical wall

20 GT+GIOVENTU' BRUCIATA: 6b, 35m. Vertical wall

21 VERSANTE SUD: 6b, 35m. Vertical wall

22 DITO DITINO: 6c, 30m. Vertical wall

23 ABBIÒ: 6c+, 30m. Vertical wall

24 ETIOPIA: 7a, 35m. Overhang

25 SOLDI PER NIENTE: 7a+, 35m. Slab

26 TOBIA: 6c, 35m. Slab

27 IL BARONE RAMPANTE: 7a+, 15m. Vertical wall

28 DIRETTI AL SOLE: 6c, 35m. Vertical wall

29 I PRIGIONIERI DEL SOLE: 6c, 35m. Slab

30 LO SAI EHHH…: 6b+, 35m. Slab

31 RAMPICANTE: 6b, 25m. Vertical wall

32 AD OVEST DI PAPERINO: 7a, 25m. Slab

33 DEGRADOMANIA: 6c, 20m. Slab

34 ROSTIE: 6b, 20m. Slab

35 VERDE BLU: 5c, 35m. Slab

36 LA GALLINA MARTA: 6a, 20m. Slab

37 NEI SECOLI FEDELE: 6b+, 20m. Overhang

38 THE LONG RUN: 6b, 20m. Overhang

39 DADAUMPA: 6b, 15m. Overhang

40 OSMOSI: 7a+, 20m. Overhang

41 DIMMI IL NUMERO: 6a, 20m. Overhang

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How to & Rules

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Check the weather forecast

Pay special attention to AllertaLiguria website and do not set off on your adventure if there should be any weather alerts.

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Respect nature and the territory

Respect nature and the territory

Connect with nature, don’t litter nor be too loud and, as a general rule, respect the territory around you. Nature will thank you and so will we.

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Fire risk

Fire risk

During times of drought avoid lighting fires, choose suitable trails avoiding those in the pine forest and favouring those with alternative routes for going back.

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Emergency numbers

Emergency numbers

Remember: 1515 for forest fires, 112 for medical emergencies. No matter what, always make sure someone knows where you are headed.

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Be careful

Be careful

If it should be a more demanding experience than expected, don't hesitate to retrace your steps.

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Respect other climbers

Respect other climbers

Bear in mind, don’t hog climbing routes, clean up chalk off holds after using them and don’t scatter your things around. It’s always a good idea to gather your belongings in one place.

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If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch and repeating it several times, it is best to use an HMS-type carabiner instead of threading it directly into the maillon to avoid its wear and tear.

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Rappeling

Rappeling

In the “finalese” crags you rarely find fixed carabiners, therefore you’ll have to be able to do a particular type of rappel to lower off.

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Plan your day

Plan your day

Make sure you are well informed on characteristics of the crag you are about to climb (route’s length, grade, exposure, walk-in time).

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