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Rocca Carpanea - Bric Scimarco Settore Superiore

Status Open
NR 40
Area Finalese
Tipologia Grade 5, Grade 6, Grade 7

Bric Scimarco upper sector (or main sector) is one of the most beautiful crags in the whole of Finale. If the grades between 6b and 7c are up your alley, this is the sector for you. Vertical walls and some overhanging pitches with exceptionally beautiful and well bolted lines, comfortable at the base (except for rare cases). However, it is not recommended for families with children or animals.

 

Grades: from 5c to 7c

Rock type: limestone

Orientation: east

Possible when raining: no

Mobile signal: yes

 

LE MIE FRAGOLE: 7a, 20m. Overhang

IL BRUTTO ANATROCCOLO: 6b+, 25m. Overhang

VALLE ARGENTINA: 6c+, 25m. Overhang and vertical wall

DUE CALZINI: 6b+, 25m. Overhang and vertical wall

L’INVIATA SPECIALE: 6a, 25m. Slab

PETIT FOUR: 5c, 25m. Slab

LA BELLE DE JOUR: 7b+, 35m. Overhang

TIFONE: 7c, 30m. Overhang

CICLONE: 7b, 30m. Overhang

10 PASSERELLA: 7a, 30m. Overhang

11 TI VOGLIO: 6c, 35m. Overhang

12 IL DUBBIO P1: 6a+, 20m. Vertical wall

                         P2: 6a+, 20m. Slab

13 CAMURRIA: 7a, 15m. Overhang

14 IL SENSO DEL DOVERE: 6b+, 35m. Vertical wall

15 LA VIA DEL CAMPO: 6c+, 35m. Vertical wall

16 LA FESTA DEL LAVORO: 7a, 35m. Slab

17 IL BUCO NERO: 6c+, 35m. Slab

18 AL DI LÀ DEL MARE: 6c, 35m. Slab

19 CARTELLINO ROSSO: 6c, 20m. Vertical wall

20 LE FALSE PROMESSE: 6c, 20m. Vertical wall

21 FESSURINA: 6b+, 20m. Vertical wall

22 SUPERFESSURINA: 6c, 15m. Vertical wall

23 KATANA: 7b, 25m. Vertical wall

24 MIKROBA: 7c, 25m. Vertical wall

25 MITICA P1: 6c, 25m. Overhang

26 OLTREMITICA: 6c+, 15m. Overhang

27 VIA DEL TRAVERSO P1: 6b+, 25m. Corner

                                        P2: 6a, 35m. Traverse

28 ILNONSOCHÈ: 6c+, 15m. Vertical wall

29 IL DIRITTO: 7a+, 20m. Vertical wall

30 STEFANO CUNEO P1: 6b+, 25m. Slab

                                    P2: 6a, 20m. Slab

31 PIETRA STREGATA: 6b+, 25m. Vertical wall

32 LA CENGIA ALLEGRA: 7a, 30m. Vertical wall

33 DITA DA CANI: 6c+, 30m. Vertical wall

34 L’ALAPAGA: 7a+, 25m. Vertical wall

35 MIX MASALA: 7c, 20m. Vertical wall

36 UMORI AMARI: 6c, 40m. Overhang and slab

37 ORBITA QUADRATA: 7a+, 25m. Roof

38 AFA LETALE: 6c, 25m. Vertical wall

39 TUTTI QUESTI TEMERARI UCCELLI: 6c, 35m. Vertical wall

40 HYPERZOT: 7a, 35m. Vertical wall

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How to & Rules

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Check the weather forecast

Pay special attention to AllertaLiguria website and do not set off on your adventure if there should be any weather alerts.

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Respect nature and the territory

Respect nature and the territory

Connect with nature, don’t litter nor be too loud and, as a general rule, respect the territory around you. Nature will thank you and so will we.

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Fire risk

Fire risk

During times of drought avoid lighting fires, choose suitable trails avoiding those in the pine forest and favouring those with alternative routes for going back.

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Emergency numbers

Emergency numbers

Remember: 1515 for forest fires, 112 for medical emergencies. No matter what, always make sure someone knows where you are headed.

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Be careful

Be careful

If it should be a more demanding experience than expected, don't hesitate to retrace your steps.

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Respect other climbers

Respect other climbers

Bear in mind, don’t hog climbing routes, clean up chalk off holds after using them and don’t scatter your things around. It’s always a good idea to gather your belongings in one place.

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If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch and repeating it several times, it is best to use an HMS-type carabiner instead of threading it directly into the maillon to avoid its wear and tear.

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Rappeling

Rappeling

In the “finalese” crags you rarely find fixed carabiners, therefore you’ll have to be able to do a particular type of rappel to lower off.

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Plan your day

Plan your day

Make sure you are well informed on characteristics of the crag you are about to climb (route’s length, grade, exposure, walk-in time).

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