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Rocca Carpanea - Parete dimenticata

Status Open
Area Finalese

La parete dimenticata è un bel settore con vie di lunghezza media 15 metri; la quasi totalità dei tiri si sviluppa su placche ed abbondano le vie di grado 6. La vicina Grotta dell'edera la rende ancora più interessante anche dal punto di vista escursionisico e naturalistico.

 

Difficoltà: dal 4c all'8b

Tipo roccia: calcare

Orientamento: ovest

Scalabile con pioggia: no

Ricezione telefoni cellulari: sì

 

1 SPIGOLO DELL’ETRUSCO 7a 20m Spigolo

2 MUTABARUKA 6b 10m Strapiombo

3 FIGOWITZ 7a+ 12m Strapiombo

4 LE CORNA NON FAN PESO 7b 15m Strapiombo

5 OTTOVOLANTE 8a 25m Strapiombo

6 TZUNAMI 8b 15m Strapiombo

7 ARIAL 8a+ 20m Strapiombo

8 UN MINOTAURO IN BALLERINE 7a+ 15m Strapiombo

9 LA DALLE L1 6a+ 15m Placca

                     L2 6b 10m Strapiombo e placca

10 LA VOGLIA MATTA 6a+ 25m Placca

11 CAPRICCIO DIAGONALE L1 5a 25m Placca in traverso

                                               L2 5c 25m Traverso

                                               L3 5c 15m Placca                          

12 LA SPADA DI DAMOCLE 6a 15m Placca

13 FA CHE DURI 6a+ 25m Muro verticale

14 PIACEVOLMENTE INSENSIBILI 6b+ 20m Muro verticale

15 DATECI UNA MANO 6b+ 20m  Muro verticale

16 CONTROFOBIA L1 6a 20m Muro verticale

                                L2 6a 25m Placca

17 LOS ANGELES 7a+ 20m Muro verticale

18 U FURESTU 6b 20m Spigolo strapiombante

19 FRIENDS 6a 15m Placca

20 I FIGHETTI DEL CLAN 6b+ 20m Placca

21 VIA DEL PETROLIO L1 5c 20m Diedro e placca

                                       L2 5a 30m Diedro

22 SANDOKAN 6b+ 20m Spigolo e placca

23 BINGO BONGO 6a+ 20m Muro verticale

24 FIGA MARIUCCIA 6b 20m Strapiombo

25 L’ALTRA MADRE 6b 20m Muro verticale

26 I PASTICCIONI 6a 20m Strapiombo

27 DUCHESSA 6a 20m Muro verticale

28 VIAGGIO NEL BUS DEL GNAO 6b 25m Muro verticale

29 LA CANNA TRA LE MANI 6c 10m Muro verticale

30 L’AMORE E’ UN ATTIMO 6a+ 20m Muro verticale

31 IL CONTE UGOLINO 6a 20m Placca

32 CIRO CI RIPENSA 6a 20m Placca

33 COMPAGNI DI MERENDE 6a+ 25m Strapiombo

34 PROGRESSIVE 7a+ 20m Strapiombo

35 FANFARA TULIP 6b 18m Diedro

36 I CONQUISTATORI DELL’INUTILE 6b 20m Placca

37 RASCHIASCOGLI 6a+ 20m Placca

38 PIMPIRIPETTANUSE 6a 25m Strapiombo

39 U MASSACAN DA FALESIA 6b 25m Muro verticale

40 LA BRIGNA L'È SEMPRE LA BRIGNA 6b 25m Placca

41 TEN DUR MOLLA NEN 6b+ 25m Muro verticale

42 CANNOLO ALLA PANNA 6a 20m Placca

43 KATANGA 6a 20m Placca

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How to & Rules

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Check the weather forecast

Pay special attention to AllertaLiguria website and do not set off on your adventure if there should be any weather alerts.

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Respect nature and the territory

Respect nature and the territory

Connect with nature, don’t litter nor be too loud and, as a general rule, respect the territory around you. Nature will thank you and so will we.

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Fire risk

Fire risk

During times of drought avoid lighting fires, choose suitable trails avoiding those in the pine forest and favouring those with alternative routes for going back.

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Emergency numbers

Emergency numbers

Remember: 1515 for forest fires, 112 for medical emergencies. No matter what, always make sure someone knows where you are headed.

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Be careful

Be careful

If it should be a more demanding experience than expected, don't hesitate to retrace your steps.

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Respect other climbers

Respect other climbers

Bear in mind, don’t hog climbing routes, clean up chalk off holds after using them and don’t scatter your things around. It’s always a good idea to gather your belongings in one place.

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If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch and repeating it several times, it is best to use an HMS-type carabiner instead of threading it directly into the maillon to avoid its wear and tear.

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Rappeling

Rappeling

In the “finalese” crags you rarely find fixed carabiners, therefore you’ll have to be able to do a particular type of rappel to lower off.

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Plan your day

Plan your day

Make sure you are well informed on characteristics of the crag you are about to climb (route’s length, grade, exposure, walk-in time).

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