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Rocca Carpanea - Parete Dimenticata

Status Open
NR 42
Area Finalese
Tipologia Grade 4, Grade 5, Grade 6, Grade 7, Grade 8

Parete Dimenticata is a beautiful sector with routes that are on average 15 meters long. Almost all of its pitches are on slabs and there is plenty of grade 6 routes. While you are here, the nearby Grotta dell'Edera could be a lovely detour; especially interesting in terms of nature, as well as a nice hike.

 

Grades: from 4c to 8b

Rock type: limestone

Orientation: west

Possible when raining: no

Mobile signal: yes

 

SPIGOLO DELL’ETRUSCO: 7a, 20m. Arête

MUTABARUKA: 6b, 10m. Overhang

FIGOWITZ: 7a+, 12m. Overhang

LE CORNA NON FAN PESO: 7b, 15m. Overhang

OTTOVOLANTE: 8a, 25m. Overhang

TZUNAMI: 8b, 15m. Overhang

ARIAL: 8a+, 20m. Overhang

UN MINOTAURO IN BALLERINE: 7a+, 15m. Overhang

9 LA DALLE P1: 6a+, 15m. Slab

                     P2: 6b, 10m. Overhang and slab

10 LA VOGLIA MATTA: 6a+, 25m. Slab

11 CAPRICCIO DIAGONALE P1: 5a, 25m. Leaning slab with diagonal to the right

                                               P2: 5c, 25m. Traverse

                                               P3: 5c, 15m. Slab

12 LA SPADA DI DAMOCLE: 6a, 15m. Slab

13 FA CHE DURI: 6a+, 25m. Vertical wall

14 PIACEVOLMENTE INSENSIBILI: 6b+, 20m. Vertical wall

15 DATECI UNA MANO: 6b+, 20m. Vertical wall

16 CONTROFOBIA P1: 6a, 20m. Vertical wall

                                P2: 6a, 25m. Slab

17 LOS ANGELES: 7a+, 20m. Vertical wall

18 U FURESTU: 6b, 20m. Overhanging arête

19 FRIENDS: 6a, 15m. Slab

20 I FIGHETTI DEL CLAN: 6b+, 20m. Slab

21 VIA DEL PETROLIO P1: 5c, 20m. Corner and slab

                                       P2: 5a, 30m. Corner

22 SANDOKAN: 6b+, 20m. Arête and slab

23 BINGO BONGO: 6a+, 20m. Vertical wall

24 FIGA MARIUCCIA: 6b, 20m. Overhang

25 L’ALTRA MADRE: 6b, 20m. Vertical wall

26 I PASTICCIONI: 6a, 20m. Overhang

27 DUCHESSA: 6a, 20m. Vertical wall

28 VIAGGIO NEL BUS DEL GNAO: 6b, 25m. Vertical wall

29 LA CANNA TRA LE MANI: 6c, 10m.Vertical wall

30 L’AMORE EUN ATTIMO: 6a+, 20m. Vertical wall

31 IL CONTE UGOLINO: 6a, 20m. Slab

32 CIRO CI RIPENSA: 6a, 20m. Slab

33 COMPAGNI DI MERENDE: 6a+, 25m. Overhang

34 PROGRESSIVE: 7a+, 20m. Overhang

35 FANFARA TULIP: 6b, 18m. Corner

36 I CONQUISTATORI DELL’INUTILE: 6b, 20m. Slab

37 RASCHIASCOGLI: 6a+, 20m. Slab

38 PIMPIRIPETTANUSE: 6a, 25m. Overhang

39 U MASSACAN DA FALESIA: 6b, 25m. Vertical wall 

40 LA BRIGNA L'È SEMPRE LA BRIGNA: 6b, 25m. Slab

41 TEN DUR MOLLA NEN: 6b+, 25m. Vertical wall

42 CANNOLO ALLA PANNA: 6a, 20m. Slab

43 KATANGA: 6a, 20m. Slab

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How to & Rules

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Check the weather forecast

Pay special attention to AllertaLiguria website and do not set off on your adventure if there should be any weather alerts.

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Respect nature and the territory

Respect nature and the territory

Connect with nature, don’t litter nor be too loud and, as a general rule, respect the territory around you. Nature will thank you and so will we.

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Fire risk

Fire risk

During times of drought avoid lighting fires, choose suitable trails avoiding those in the pine forest and favouring those with alternative routes for going back.

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Emergency numbers

Emergency numbers

Remember: 1515 for forest fires, 112 for medical emergencies. No matter what, always make sure someone knows where you are headed.

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Be careful

Be careful

If it should be a more demanding experience than expected, don't hesitate to retrace your steps.

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Respect other climbers

Respect other climbers

Bear in mind, don’t hog climbing routes, clean up chalk off holds after using them and don’t scatter your things around. It’s always a good idea to gather your belongings in one place.

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If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch and repeating it several times, it is best to use an HMS-type carabiner instead of threading it directly into the maillon to avoid its wear and tear.

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Rappeling

Rappeling

In the “finalese” crags you rarely find fixed carabiners, therefore you’ll have to be able to do a particular type of rappel to lower off.

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Plan your day

Plan your day

Make sure you are well informed on characteristics of the crag you are about to climb (route’s length, grade, exposure, walk-in time).

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