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Rocca Carpanea - Paretina di Pian Marino

Status Open
NR 59
Area Finalese
Tipologia Grade 3, Grade 4, Grade 5, Grade 6, Grade 7

A beautiful sector of slabs and vertical walls. Its left side has been re-bolted, and it offers overall shorter routes that are now unfortunately quite polished. Its right side offers more recent and longer routes. Excellent bolting made with stainless steel glued bolts.

 

Grades: from 3b to 7b

Rock type: limestone

Orientation: west

Possible when raining: no

Mobile signal: yes

 

1 MA NON C’È SUL LIBRO: 6b+, 10m. Overhang

2 NO FRIENDS: 6b, 10m. Overhang and roof

3 BRUTTA: 3b, 10m. Roof

4 MERLO DI NOTTINGHAM: 4a, 10m. Vertical wall and slab

5 A.A.A. FESSURA CERCASI: 5c, 10m. Crack and slab

6 EQUINOX: 5c, 10m. Slab

7 CALMA E GESSO: 4c, 10m. Slab

8 SGORBY SUPERPALL: 6a, 15m. Slab

9 LA ROVERE: 6b, 15m. Slab

10 NATTA NATTA CHIUDI LA PATTA: 6a+, 15m. Slab

11 ROXY BAR: 6b+, 15m. Slab

12 L’ANELLO MAGICO: 4c, 15m. Corner and slab

13 GEMELLI RIBELLI: 5c, 15m. Vertical wall

14 GEMELLINI BIRICHINI: 6a, 15m. Slab

15 ASTEROID: 6a, 16m. Vertical wall and slab

16 APONA P1: 4c, 15m. Corner

                   P2: 5b, 5m. Slab

17 SMÉAGOL: 5c, 15m. Slab

18 GANDALF: 6a, 20m. Slab

19 ZWEIN ALBEREICH: 6b, 15m. Vertical wall and slab

20 DIGI SEQUENCER: 6a, 15m. Slab

21 SOPHIE: 6a, 20m. Superb white slab!

22 IL RIENTRO DEI MAGHI: 6b+, 20m. Overhang and slab

23 CLAUSTROFOBICA: 6b+, 20m. Corner/chimney

24 DER HEILIGE FLAT: 6c+, 20m. Overhang

25 I GIOIELLI DI VAL: 6b, 25m. Corner

26 SPIT AND LOVE: 6b, 20m. Overhang and roof

27 FRUGA PER LA VITTORIA: 6b+, 20m. Overhang and strenuous roof

28 COME VUOI: 6c+, 15m. Overhang

29 STRANGER: 6c, 20m. Vertical wall and overhang

30 PET’S SHOP BOYS: 6b, 25m. Slab

31 CHILDREN: 4c, 10m. Slab

32 MOON MACHINE: 6b, 25m. Overhang and slab

33 NONNA MANIN: 6b, 25m. Overhang and slab

34 ARIA STRAORDINARIA: 6b, 25m. Vertical wall

35 LEGOLAND: 6a+, 25m. Corner and slab

36 GORIAMATIC: 6a, 10m. Overhang

37 NEUTRON: 5b, 10m. Overhang

38 BABY CANNA: 6a+, 10m. Vertical wall

39 DEPECHE WAY: 7b, 10m. Roof

40 SENSELESS: 6a, 10m. Corner/crack

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How to & Rules

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Check the weather forecast

Pay special attention to AllertaLiguria website and do not set off on your adventure if there should be any weather alerts.

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Respect nature and the territory

Respect nature and the territory

Connect with nature, don’t litter nor be too loud and, as a general rule, respect the territory around you. Nature will thank you and so will we.

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Fire risk

Fire risk

During times of drought avoid lighting fires, choose suitable trails avoiding those in the pine forest and favouring those with alternative routes for going back.

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Emergency numbers

Emergency numbers

Remember: 1515 for forest fires, 112 for medical emergencies. No matter what, always make sure someone knows where you are headed.

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Be careful

Be careful

If it should be a more demanding experience than expected, don't hesitate to retrace your steps.

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Respect other climbers

Respect other climbers

Bear in mind, don’t hog climbing routes, clean up chalk off holds after using them and don’t scatter your things around. It’s always a good idea to gather your belongings in one place.

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If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch and repeating it several times, it is best to use an HMS-type carabiner instead of threading it directly into the maillon to avoid its wear and tear.

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Rappeling

Rappeling

In the “finalese” crags you rarely find fixed carabiners, therefore you’ll have to be able to do a particular type of rappel to lower off.

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Plan your day

Plan your day

Make sure you are well informed on characteristics of the crag you are about to climb (route’s length, grade, exposure, walk-in time).

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