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Rocca Carpanea - Placca e Pilastro di Mu

Status Open
NR 51
Area Finalese
Tipologia Grade 4, Grade 5, Grade 6, Grade 7

Placca di Mu is characterised by very technical slab routes requiring extreme friction moves. A little further to the right, you can find the pretty new sector called Pilastro di Mu. Its routes are almost all multi-pitch on very featured rock, and they also follow corners and cracks. The base, always very comfortable and wide, is especially suitable for families with children or animals. Recommended in the winter months.

 

Grades: from 4a to 7a

Rock type: limestone

Orientation: west

Possible when raining: no

Mobile signal: yes

 

ZINGARO SILVANO: 6b+, 20m. Slab

PLACCA DI MU (VIA DI SINISTRA): 6a, 15m. Slab

CAIMANO: 7a, 20m. Slab

INNOCENTI EVASIONI: 6c, 20m. Slab

PAPILLON: 7a, 20m. Slab

PLACCA DI MU (VIA DI DESTRA): 6b, 20m. Slab

FELICETTO CUOR CONTENTO: 6b, 20m. Slab

IL FLAUTO DI PAN: 6a+, 20m. Slab

VIA DEI NESCI L1: 5a, 15m. Slab

                             L2: 6a, 20m. Slab

                             L3: 4c, 20m. Slab

10 EXCALIBUR L1: 5a, 15m. Slab

                          L2: 5a, 20m. Slab

                          L3: 4c, 10m. Slab

11 VIA DI SINISTRA (SPIGOLO) L1: 4b, 15m. Slab

                                                     L2: 4c, 20m. Slab

                                                     L3: 5b, 20m. Slab

                                                     L4: 6a, 15m. Slab

12 DIRETTA AI DIEDRI: 5b, 30m. Slab and corner

13 VIA DI CENTRO (DIEDRI) L1: 5c, 15m. Slab

                                                L2: 4b, 20m. Slab

                                                L3: 5b, 20m. Slab and corner

                                                L4: 6a, 15m. Slab and corner

14 VIA DI DESTRA (FESSURE) L1: 5c, 15m. Slab

                                                    L2: 4b, 20m. Slab

                                                    L3: 5c, 20m. Slab

                                                    L4: 5a, 20m. Slab

                                                    L5: 4a, 15m. Slab

                                                    L6: 5a, 15m. Slab

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How to & Rules

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Check the weather forecast

Pay special attention to AllertaLiguria website and do not set off on your adventure if there should be any weather alerts.

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Respect nature and the territory

Respect nature and the territory

Connect with nature, don’t litter nor be too loud and, as a general rule, respect the territory around you. Nature will thank you and so will we.

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Fire risk

Fire risk

During times of drought avoid lighting fires, choose suitable trails avoiding those in the pine forest and favouring those with alternative routes for going back.

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Emergency numbers

Emergency numbers

Remember: 1515 for forest fires, 112 for medical emergencies. No matter what, always make sure someone knows where you are headed.

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Be careful

Be careful

If it should be a more demanding experience than expected, don't hesitate to retrace your steps.

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Respect other climbers

Respect other climbers

Bear in mind, don’t hog climbing routes, clean up chalk off holds after using them and don’t scatter your things around. It’s always a good idea to gather your belongings in one place.

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If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch and repeating it several times, it is best to use an HMS-type carabiner instead of threading it directly into the maillon to avoid its wear and tear.

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Rappeling

Rappeling

In the “finalese” crags you rarely find fixed carabiners, therefore you’ll have to be able to do a particular type of rappel to lower off.

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Plan your day

Plan your day

Make sure you are well informed on characteristics of the crag you are about to climb (route’s length, grade, exposure, walk-in time).

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