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Rocca di Perti - Versante Nord

Status Open
NR 30
Area Finalese
Tipologia Grade 4, Grade 5, Grade 6, Grade 7, Grade 8

Rocca di Perti northern slope is one of the most historic sectors in the Finale Ligure area. There is a great number of multi-pitches mainly on vertical walls, sometimes on cracks. Having medium-low grade routes with varying angles, Rocca di Perti northern slope is often chosen for climbing courses.

 

Grades: from 4b to 8a

Rock type: limestone

Orientation: north

Possible when raining: no

Mobile signal: no

 

VIA CON LA PIOGGIA P1: 4b, 15m. Corner/crack (protected with pegs)

                                       P2: 5c, 25m. Corner and vertical wall (protected with pegs)

                                       P3: 4b, 10m. Slab (protected with pegs)

                                       P4: 5c, 20m. Wall and crack (protected with pegs)

                                       P5: 3c, 5m. Slab (protected with pegs)

LE NOCI DI SBRINZO P1: 5b, 28m. Slab

                                        P2: 6b, 30m. Overhang and slab

SGRIVURE E PURCHIN P1: 5b, 30m. Slab and vertical wall

                                          P2: 5a, 10m. Slab

                                          P3: 6a, 25m. Vertical wall

1977-2003 P1: 5b, 30m. Slab and vertical wall

                         P2: 6a+, 30m. Vertical wall and corner

                         P3: 6a, 20m. Slab

VIA MATTEO P1: 5c, 20m. Crack (protected with pegs)

                          P2: 5c /A2, 30m. Vertical wall and crack (protected with pegs)

                          P3: 5c /A1, 20m. Overhang and crack (protected with pegs)

VIOLA P1: 6c, 35m. Vertical wall

               P2: 7b+, 30m. Vertical wall

GRAZIE SPINGARDI: 8a?, 30m. Vertical wall

AVVELENATA: 7a, 25m. Vertical wall

ENOLA GAY: 7b+, 25m Vertical wall

10 GIBBA P1: 6a+, 35m. Vertical wall

                 P2: A0/A1, 40m. Roof and vertical wall

11 HIROSHIMA: 7a, 25m. Vertical wall

12 VARIANTE: ?, 25m. Vertical wall

13 NORD END P1: 6a+, 25m. Crack and verticl wall

                          P2: 5c, 25m. Slab

                          P3: 6b, 20m. Vertical wall and slab

                          P4: 6a, 30m. Vertical wall

14 CONSOLANDO CONSUELO P1: 4c, 25m. Slab

                                                   P2: 5b, 15m. Corner

                                                   P3: 4b, 20m. Corner

                                                   P4: 5b, 20m. Chimney

                                                   P5: 3b, 20m. Slab

15 ANNA PAGNINI P1: 5c, 30m. Slab and vertical wall

                                 P2: 6b, 25m. Vertical wall and overhang

                                 P3: 6a+, 30m. Crack, slab and vertical wall

16 ALLORQUANDO IL CAVALIER GIOVANNI DEL CARRETTO CONOBBE BRIGIDA, SUA FUTURA SPOSA

                                               P1: 5a, 10m. Slab

                                               P2: 5c, 30m. Vertical wall

                                               P3: 6a, 25m. Overhang and slab

                                               P4: 6a, 25m. Slab and corner

                                               P5: 5a, 15m. Corner

17 OHH P1: 5a, 10m. Slab

               P2: 6c, 35m. Corner and crack

               P3: 4a, 37m. Slab

18 APROSDOKETON P1: 5b, 30m. Vertical wall

                                    P2: 5c, 20m. Vertical wall

                                    P3: 5c, 20m. Corner and crack 

                                    P4: 5c, 30m. Vertical wall and corner

19 PANTA REI P1: 5b, 30m. Chimney and vertical wall

                         P2: 5c, 35m. Overhang, vertical wall and corner/crack 

                         P3: 5b, 25m. Slab and corner

                         P4: 6a, 20m. Slab

                         P5: 5c, 25m. Vertical wall and slab

20 MAS DE NADA: 6c, 15m. Corner and leaning slab  (dangerous bolting with old bolt hangers)

21 NONNO DINO P1: 5c, 30m. Slab and overhang

                              P2: 6a, 25m. Slab and overhang

                              P3: 3c, 10m. Slab

                              P4: 5c, 25m. Slab

                              P5: 6b, 30m. Slab and overhang

22 VIA COL VENTO P1: 4c, 30m. Vertical wall

                                 P2: 4b, 20m. Corner/crack

                                 P3: 3b, 30m. Traverse on ledge

                                 P4: 4c, 20m. Slab and vertical wall 

                                 P5: 4b, 30m. Corner

23 DIRETTA: 5c, 20m. Vertical wall (equipped with bolt hangers)

24 AVANZINI- ROSSA P1: 5b, 25m. Vertical wall and corner

                                      P2: 5c, 25m. Traverse and corner/crack

                                      P3: 3b, 30m. Slab (no fixed protection on this pitch)

                                      P4: 5c, 20m. Slab and crack

                                      P5: 4c, 25m. Vertical wall and leaning slab (no fixed protection on this pitch)

25 VIA ATTRAVERSO IL FICO P1: 6a+, 30m. Overhang and slab

                                                  P2: 6b+, 35m. Vertical wall

                                                  P3: 6b, 30m. Vertical wall and crack

                                                  P4: 5c, 25m. Corner and slab

26 BAMBINI BUTRESS: 7a+, 25m. Overhang

27 VECCHIE BELINE P1: 6a, 20m. Vertical wall and  corner/crack

                                    P2: 5c, 25m. Corner

                                    P3: 5b, 25m. Vertical wall

                                    P4: 5c, 20m. Slab and vertical wall

                                    P5: 6a, 30m. Slab and overhang

28 VIA DEL RIFIUTO P1: 5c, 25m. Crack (protected with pegs)

                                   P2: 5b, 25m. Crack (protected with pegs)

                                   P3: 5c, 25m. Slab and corner (protected with pegs)

                                   P4: 4c, 25m. Crack (protected with pegs)

29 PURCHIN P1: 4c, 30m. Corner and slab

                       P2: 5b, 30m. Vertical wall

                       P3: 5b, 40m. Chimney

30 ANONIMA P1: 5c, 30m. Slab (protected with pegs)

                        P2: 5c, 30m. Crack (protected with pegs)

                        P3: 5c, 30m. Corner (protected with pegs)

31 PILASTRO GRIGIASTRO P1: 6a, 30m. Slab and vertical wall

                                              P2: 7a+, 30m. Vertical wall

                                              P3: 6b, 30m. Vertical wall and slab

32 VIA DEL 77-79 DI DESTRA: 5c, 90m. Vertical wall (equipped with pegs) 

33 ME NE BATTO U BELIN P1: 5c, 30m. Vertical wall (equipped with pegs)

                                              P3: 5c, 30m. Placca (equipped with pegs)

34 BRUJA BARACCHE P1: 5c, 30m. Vertical wall and corner

                                     P2: 5c, 25m. Crack

                                     P3: 5c, 35m. Corner

35 AGURE DE PANISSA P1: 6a, 15m. Slab and vertical wall (equipped with new pegs)

                                         P2: 6a+, 45m. Corner and vertical wall (equipped with new pegs)

36 PICCININO DI SINISTRA: 5c, 60m. Crack (equipped with pegs)

37 PICCININO DI DESTRA: max 5c, 60m. Crack (equipped with pegs)

38 ASPETTANDO UN AMICO P1: 6a, 15m. Vertical wall (equipped with new pegs)

                                                 P2: 6a, 25m. Vertical wall (equipped with new pegs)

39 VIA DELLO SPIGOLO P1: 2b, 35m. Slab (entire pitch needs protecting)

                                         P2: 2b, 35m. Slab (entire pitch needs protecting)

                                         P3: 2c, 30m. Slab (entire pitch needs protecting)

                                         P4: 3b, 30m. Crack and corner (entire pitch needs protecting)

                                         P5: 4c, 10m. Vertical wall (entire pitch needs protecting)

                                         P6: 3b, 30m. Slab (entire pitch needs protecting)

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How to & Rules

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Check the weather forecast

Pay special attention to AllertaLiguria website and do not set off on your adventure if there should be any weather alerts.

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Respect nature and the territory

Respect nature and the territory

Connect with nature, don’t litter nor be too loud and, as a general rule, respect the territory around you. Nature will thank you and so will we.

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Fire risk

Fire risk

During times of drought avoid lighting fires, choose suitable trails avoiding those in the pine forest and favouring those with alternative routes for going back.

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Emergency numbers

Emergency numbers

Remember: 1515 for forest fires, 112 for medical emergencies. No matter what, always make sure someone knows where you are headed.

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Be careful

If it should be a more demanding experience than expected, don't hesitate to retrace your steps.

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Respect other climbers

Respect other climbers

Bear in mind, don’t hog climbing routes, clean up chalk off holds after using them and don’t scatter your things around. It’s always a good idea to gather your belongings in one place.

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If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch, use your own HMS

If you are training on a pitch and repeating it several times, it is best to use an HMS-type carabiner instead of threading it directly into the maillon to avoid its wear and tear.

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Rappeling

Rappeling

In the “finalese” crags you rarely find fixed carabiners, therefore you’ll have to be able to do a particular type of rappel to lower off.

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Plan your day

Plan your day

Make sure you are well informed on characteristics of the crag you are about to climb (route’s length, grade, exposure, walk-in time).

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