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29 January 2022

CLIMBING IN THE FINALE AREA: ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW!

Finale Ligure, with its almost 4000 routes, is one of the main climbing spots not only in Italy but in Europe. The impressive limestone walls, so tipycal of Finale and the Finale Area, from the hinterland to the sea, attract climbers from all over the world, all-year round.

Choosing the right sector, here you can even climb in winter when the grip is excellent and in summer, along several shady crags, although the best seasons are still spring and autumn. The routes, bolted by many enthusiasts over the years are suitable for all climbers from beginners to experts, lovers of single pitch and multi-pitch routes, but also those who want to experience long routes, such as the ones on Bric Pianarella, the "big wall" of the Finale Area.

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If you are planning to climb in the Finale Area, here you can find some useful information!

PLAN YOUR DAY IN THE BEST POSSIBLE WAY: INFO AND GUIDES

The reference guides for climbing in the Finale area are: "Finale 51 - Rock Climbing in Finale Ligure" by Andrea Gallo (Idee Verticali Edizioni) and "Finale Climbing - Arrampicate sportive nel Finalese" by Marco Tommasini (Versante Sud Edizioni). You can find them at the Infopoint Outdoor (Finale Outdoor Base) and in the outdoor shops and bookshops in Finalborgo and Finale. All climbing offers can also be found on the website www.finaleoutdoor.com.

Furthermore, in the "LIVE INFO" page of the website, there are notices of closures, maintenance, etc… A useful tool for keeping updated and maximizing your climbing experience.

HOW TO FIND YOUR WAY AROUND THE FINALE AREA

Having a map of the path and crags (eg. "Map 20. Finalese. Map of paths and roads 1:25,000" - Fraternali Editori) will be very useful.

As an alternative, you can download the app Outdooractive.

ACTIVITIES WITH THE MOUNTAIN GUIDES

Although in the Finale Area many sectors and pitches are suitable for beginners, climbing is still a potentially dangerous activity.

The Mountain Guides in the area offer classes or guiding to approach this sport in total safety, choosing the most appropriate sectors according to the level of the participants and the season. Among the activities you can choose: rock climbing courses for adults and children, multipitch courses, trad climbing, via ferrata, mountaineering and adventure trails to discover the beautiful Finalese territory. For more information, please contact the Infopoint Outdoor: contact@finaleoutdoor.com

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VIA FERRATA

In the Finale area, you can also try your hand at a spectacular Via Ferrata. It is in the municipality of Magliolo, about 30 minutes from Finale. The “Via Ferrata degli Artisti”, so-called for the presence of paintings by the local artist Mario Nebiolo, brings you to the summit of Bric Agnellino with a drop of 670 metres, 1200 metres of development and a spectacular Tibetan bridge of 42 metres!

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Photo: Società Guide Alpine Finale

RESTRICTIONS

The Finale area is a beautiful environment rich in biodiversity that should be protected as much as possible.  In order to safeguard the last potential nesting sites of important birds of prey, such as the eagle owl and peregrine falcon, the following crags are banned from climbing all-year round: 

  • Bric Pianarella settore meridionale
  • Rocce del Borgo
  • Rocca di Corno Parete Ovest
  • Falesia del Vacchè Versante Est
  • Scogliera di Capo Noli

On others the ban is temporary, and it goes from 01/01 to 31/07:

  • Monte Tolla
  • Bastionata Centrale e Destra di Boragni
  • Rocca degli Uccelli
  • Bric Reseghe
  • Bastionata Centrale e Destra di Boragni

ACCESS TO CLIMBING SITES

The roads leading to the climbing sites (specifically Perti, Monte Sordo, Rocca di Corno, Boragni and Bric Reseghe) can be reached by car; however, parking is banned almost everywhere on these roads, as they are very narrow and the transit for emergency vehicles must always be guaranteed along them. For the same reason, on the final part (last 3-5 km) of the Perti - Pian Marino road, which leads to the Monte Sordo sector and to the north and west walls of the Rocca di Perti, there are length and weight limits, which do not allow campers and vans to pass. In addition, on the road leading to Monte Sordo - from Piazza Martiri Perticesi onwards - there are also parking bans, as well as along the Calvisio Vecchia road (Via Bedina and neighbouring roads). More generally, on the whole territory of the Municipality of Finale

Ligure, outside the authorised areas, camping and overnight stays in vehicles is not permitted for reasons of decorum and public health.

AND WHEN IT RAINS?

No problem, why not spend a few hours training in the gym? A few km from the centre of Finale, the Supergiù ASD gym is the right place to have a few hours of fun with friends! For information: supergiuasd@gmail.com

WANT TO KNOW MORE?

Are you interested in the history of climbing in Finale?

Getting to know who the pioneers of this sport were in the 1960s and how Finale became the reference point for sport climbing? Then we recommend you watch Gabriele Canu's "Finale '68".


and the documentary "Petzl Legend Tour". to discover the historic routes that marked the beginning of sport climbing in Italy.

Or read "UN SOGNO LUNGO 50 ANNI LA REAL STORIA DELL'ARRAMPICATA A FINALE 1968-2018" by Alessandro Grillo (Versante Sud Edizioni).

EVENTS

In Finale Ligure and the Finale area there is no shortage of climbing events. The most popular is "Finale For Nepal" which normally takes place in October. Finale For Nepal is a voluntary social event that carries out important projects in support of the Nepalese population, with lots of activities, bouldering competitions and a great party! Moreover, every year there is "Orco Climb", organised by Supergiù ASD, a party with a climbing contest that has been held for the last two years in Orco and in which adults and children both take part. In 2021 in the wonderful location of the Grottone di Monte Cucco, the first edition of  "Piccolo Festival delle Culture Verticali" was a great success, being able to give strong feelings thanks to the presence of climbers and artists all deeply connected to the Finale area.

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SHOPPING

In Finalborgo you will find all you need for your adventures! Equipment, clothing, the main outdoor brands, maps, guides and advice. A real point of reference for all climbers!

HOW TO SUPPORT CRAGS MAINTENANCE

When it comes to climbing, safety first! This is why it is necessary to check the state of the crags and take measures to make them safe. If you want to support the maintenance of the Finalese crags, buy the FOR YOU CARD! With every purchase in the affiliated activities a small part of your expense will be donated to the maintenance of the territory, while you get points that entitle you to discounts on activities and much more. Find out more about the card www.finaleoutdoor.com/card

Now you just have to organise your next climbing adventure in the Finale area! For more info or support, get in touch with our Infopoint: contact@finaloutdoor.com

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